Gar
na
cha

Quel: The cradle and origin of riojan garnacha

The first written record of Garnacha dates back to 1321, found in a ruling by the Parliament of Paris. The document details a shipment of 1,387 casks of wine: half griece (likely Muscat or Malvasia from Greece) and half varnacie (Garnacha). This style of wine, also known historically as vernache, gernache, or grenache, was widely distributed across Europe by Venetian merchants starting in 1204. By the late 18th century, it had gained significant popularity in France as a vin de liqueur (fortified wine).

In 1882, the researcher Valier noted that Garnacha was a relatively recent introduction to Aragon. While it was used primarily as a table grape in the early 19th century, its natural resistance to powdery mildew (oídio) fueled its expansion throughout the region. By the end of that century, it accounted for 85% of the vineyards in Cariñena. Prior to the arrival of phylloxera, the variety spread across southern France under names such as Grenache, Bois Jaune, or Bouge de Alicante. Valier described it as a robust vine with light green leaves and well-distributed, low-hanging clusters that rarely touch the ground.

Key Characteristics of Garnacha

In 1942, Marcilla described the Garnacha vine as having an upright growth habit (porte erguido), with medium-to-small, hairless (lampiñas) leaves of a pale green hue. Although it flowers abundantly, it is prone to poor fruit set (cuajado incompleto), particularly when grafted onto rootstocks like Rupestris du Lot. It is a late-ripening variety, typically yielding lower alcohol levels and higher acidity than the Tinto de Madrid. Its wines, noted for their soft color intensity, tend to develop a characteristic “onion-skin” (tela de cebolla) tint as they age.

In 1978, Antonio Larrea further detailed its viticultural merits:

• Terroir Adaptation: It thrives in stony and clay-based soils, preferably on well-ventilated hillsides and in warm climates.

• Resilience: While highly resistant to powdery mildew, it remains vulnerable to downy mildew (mildiu) and certain pests.

• Yields: Although capable of high yields, it is notably susceptible to coulure (the shattering of the flower).

The introduction of the Garnacha grape to Rioja is not fully documented, yet it is intrinsically linked to two critical periods of viticultural crisis: the powdery mildew (oídio) outbreak of 1854 and the extensive replanting efforts following the phylloxera plague during the first third of the 20th century.

From the very beginning, the village of Quel emerged as a primary hub for Garnacha cultivation. A living testament to this heritage is the El Arca estate—a vineyard of less than one hectare dating back to the late 19th century. As one of the oldest standing vineyards in the DOCa Rioja, it serves as rare, tangible evidence of the variety’s early arrival in the region.

Early Documentary References

Renowned researchers such as Fernando Martínez de Toda and Juan Carlos Sancha (University of La Rioja) have traced the variety’s earliest historical mentions. Garnacha appears in an 1846 manuscript from Briñas titled “Prevención para la elaboración de vinos destinados a Ultramar” (Guidelines for the Production of Wines Destined for Overseas). This document highlights the success of wines crafted with Tempranillo blended with “Garnacha, Graciana, or Mazuela.”

The Agricultural Service of the Provincial Council of Navarra, founded in 1896 and led by the influential agronomist Nicolás García de los Salmones, played a pivotal role in the post-phylloxera recovery. In this context, García de los Salmones organized the National Viticulture Congress to commemorate the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa—a landmark event for Spanish oenology.

Quel: The Cradle of Garnacha in Rioja

In one of the congress’s most crucial presentations, García de los Salmones delivered the most extensive study to date on Rioja’s varietal heritage. He documented 42 varieties cultivated in the province of Logroño and 26 in Álava.

For the first time in history, he formally linked specific grape varieties to their respective municipalities. In this seminal analysis, he identified Quel as the primary epicenter for Garnacha in Rioja, while also noting the presence of Mazuela and other emblematic varieties that define the region’s identity today.

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